The month of August has important tasks that must be completed when growing chrysanthemums for exhibition competitions. Each potted mums plant explodes with new growth in August, causing the stems to grow taller. So instead of shooting straight up, the stems start to bend or curl, or get tangled up with stems from their own pot or those pots nearby. To ensure straight stems, I need to stake the stems. (Picture #1)
How to Stake a Chrysanthemum Stem
In July I pruned the mums plants on which I planned to grow disbuds to three stems. I started staking every stem on each plant with a 5-foot bamboo pole after the stems were tall enough (12-15 inches) to pull to the side of the pot and tie to a stake. Great care must be taken during this process, for a still young stem can easily snap off as it’s being tied to a stake, or the fragile leaves can break-off or be damaged, Lovely leaves are needed on the stem for show exhibitions.
In picture #2, I show a staked stem. I use 5-inch plastic ties to fasten the stems to stakes. I’m right-handed, so if possible I place the stem on the left side of the stake, carefully fold the tie above a leaf that has already been disbudded, and twist the tie two times. The tie ends stick straight out after the twists. Don’t leave them that way. Push the tie ends flat against the pole so that they do not intrude on the growth pattern of adjacent leaves.
Picture #3 shows a mums plant with three staked stems. Notice the stakes are placed in a triangular pattern, with each stake being separated by an equal distance. It’s also important to insert the stake as straight as you can into the pot. Your mums plant stems weren’t born to lean. The stems’ DNA insists that they grow straight up. Don’t make your mums plants fight their natural tendencies with slanting stakes.
How to Disbud Auxiliary Buds on a Chrysanthemum Stem
August growth doesn’t just result in taller stems. It also produces new leaves on the stems. Mums plants want to produce blooms, so every new leaf will support the growth of a side branch that will produce an auxiliary bud. (Picture #4) If left unchecked, the auxiliary bud will produce a limp stem with many small blooms.
Because I grow mums for show exhibitions, I want each mums stem to produce only one bloom. That means I need to remove all the auxiliary buds, except for the terminal bud growing at the top of the stem. This removal process is called “disbudding.” It’s really another type of pruning.
Picture #4 demonstrates two auxiliary buds on a stem. The bud on the top left is fairly young. The bud to the right below it has larger leaves sticking straight up. Buds need to be removed as soon as possible. Some growers wait until the bud cluster is developed to fingernail size and then carefully remove them from the stem using their thumb and forefinger. I remove the auxiliary buds earlier by using a small pair of embroidery scissors. I place my thumb under the leaf on which the bud is growing, support the stem with my forefinger, lift up the bud with the scissors, then carefully push the scissors upwards. I try to avoid digging a deep hole in the stem or scratching the stem during this process.
Picture #5 shows new stems growing very low on the stem. Those type I remove with clippers.
Of course watering, fertilizing, and spraying for insect control are also included in August growing mums for exhibition tasks. Yes, growing mums for show does take a lot of time. But no, it isn’t work. I always enjoy the peace that falls over me as I perform the necessary tasks that will eventually produce beautiful chrysanthemum blooms for October and November exhibitions.
Beginner’s Handbook: Handbook for New Growers of Chrysanthemums, Revised Edition, 2001. National Chrysanthemum Society, INC. USA